When chef Son Jong-won of Seoulโs one-Michelin-star Eatanic Garden was asked recently about the one ingredient he felt could be better represented outside Korea, he did not hesitate.
โIf you go to Italy, you know that olive oil is a staple that represents the country,โ he says. The chef, who was speaking about the evolution and expansion of hansik, or Korean cuisine, said: โPerilla oil is something we use [in Korea] that should be known more.โ
The golden oil, known in Korea as deulgireum, is derived from cold-pressing the seeds of the perilla plant โ a fragrant herb better known by its Japanese name, shiso. It has a distinctive nuttiness and herbal quality, with a slight aniseed finish.
โYou can incorporate perilla oil in salad dressings,โ Son says, doubling down on the idea that the ingredient should be seen in the same realm as a good quality extra virgin olive oil.
He is not the only proponent of perilla seed oil. In March 2024, during an intriguing presentation on Korean ingredients, co-head chef Kim Do-yun of one-Michelin-star Yun Seoul โ known for his appearance on Netflix reality cooking competition Culinary Class Wars โ gave everyone in the audience a little noodle taster and a tiny bottle of perilla oil to take home.