Opinion | How Hong Kong culinary icon Chua Lam inspired a generation to explore the world through food


With Chua Lamโ€™s death on June 25, Hong Kong has lost not just a culinary icon but a storyteller who inspired a generation of Hongkongers to explore the world through food.

As a child of the Asia-Australia diaspora, my first experience of Chua Lam was via television. My mother had rented one of his series on VHS tapes, and I remember sitting down to an episode of him visiting a vineyard in Australia.

While tasting the wine, the vineyardโ€™s owner said: โ€œThis is a rare vintage, so we should drink it instead of spitting it into the spittoon.โ€ Chua, however, looked straight at the camera and said to the audience, in Cantonese: โ€œThis wine isnโ€™t that great, but we can drink it anyway.โ€

I was instantly captivated โ€“ not only because of Chuaโ€™s candour, but also because he said it with confidence. Through that confidence, you felt wisdom in his words.

Chua at Luk Yu Tea House in Central, Hong Kong, in 2008. Photo: David Wong
Chua at Luk Yu Tea House in Central, Hong Kong, in 2008. Photo: David Wong
Born in Singapore in 1941 to a poet father โ€“ who later worked at Hong Kong film studio Shaw Brothers โ€“ and a school principal mother, Chua was the third of four children. As a child, he lived above a movie theatre, which helped fuel an obsession with cinema.

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