Drink in Focus: Redemption at Orchard


One of the more welcome changes to Gage Street Market was the addition of fruit spirit cocktail bar Orchard. The venue is Hong Kongโ€™s first and only concept specialising in eau de vie, a type of brandy distilled from fruits other than grapes.

With that definition, eau de vie seems straightforward enough. But when Orchard opened its doors, founder Alex Pun realised he still had some explaining to do. โ€œThe common misconceptions we encountered were that all fruit spirits were flavoured vodka, or that all fruit spirits are sweet. The reality is that these distinct products are made from distillation of the fruits themselves rather than infusion. Many fruit spirits can be dry or even bitter, depending on the production process.โ€

Alex Pun, founder of Hong Kongโ€™s Orchard bar. Photo: Handout
Alex Pun, founder of Hong Kongโ€™s Orchard bar. Photo: Handout

Redemption, for example, places prune brandy at the centre of a negroni riff built to accent all aspects of the spirit. โ€œThe base idea,โ€ Pun says, โ€œwas to create a spirit-forward, bitter and sweet cocktail. The negroni is more popular among bartenders and industry people, and I find it is not the most ordered cocktail in a bar. With the negroniโ€™s bitter foundation, we came up with the Redemption to make it more approachable.โ€

The prune brandy in question is G.E. Massenez, made from fermented plums. Pun compares it to cognac, whose production is restricted to a specific commune in France and to a regulated method. โ€œPrune brandy is not restricted to a specific area,โ€ Pun explains, โ€œand ageing [methods] vary.โ€ In the case of the Massenez, the result is a rich, sweet and fruity brandy compared to cognac, which includes fruit flavours but also has spice and oak depending on how itโ€™s aged.

Orchardโ€™s Redemption cocktail places prune brandy at the centre of a variation on the negroni. Photo: Handout
Orchardโ€™s Redemption cocktail places prune brandy at the centre of a variation on the negroni. Photo: Handout

โ€œPrune brandy is known for its rich flavour profile and smooth texture,โ€ Pun explains. โ€œPeople who enjoy brown spirits like whisky, bourbon or rum are likely to appreciate prune brandy as much. Even with cocktails, the spiritโ€™s rich and complex character is prominent.โ€

Though cognac is not used in the negroni, and the boulevardier uses whisky instead, the prune brandyโ€™s profile pairs well with Campari infused sous-vide with strawberries. The brandy and strawberry Campari are batched with hazelnut liqueur and chocolate bitters, then mixed with Cocchi Americano extra-dry vermouth and saline solution, to be served on the rocks.

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